Opera, fashion and Maria Callas


I went to the V&A last weekend to see the current exhibition about opera entitled 'Opera, power, passion and politics" . I am a great opera lover so I could not miss it. It's a charming exhibition, really aimed at those who are quite unacquainted with opera and its history, but there is also something for those who already know much, which is a great curatorial achievement.  I enjoyed its immersive quality and appreciated the concept of taking the visitor through a number of operas, focussing on their context and political significance in the major European capitals, from its beginnings in Venice, with a grand finale of short films about opera today.
 A highlight of the exhibition is the audioguide which gives an opportunity to hear wonderful arias. I also appreciated the attempt to bring fashion into the equation,  though it was not the exhibition's main focus. I absolutely loved the Gianni Versace's gown designed for Salome's mother Herodias in the 1987 Robert Wilson's production of Salome. What a dress! Pure, unadulterated elegance, devoid of any flamboyance.
Versace's dress for Herodias

As a fashion and opera lover I would have loved to see more of the opera and fashion  connection explored.
La Divina Maria Callas could be heard singing Abigaille's love song for Ismaele in Verdi's Nabucco. I ADORE Maria Callas. Her inimitable, instantly recognizable, unique  voice has been discussed and analysed at length , I don't have much to add to that conversation.  But La Divina was also a fashion enthusiast and I am totally bowled over by her elegance, on and off stage.
There have been a few exhibitions of her costumes and a recent one is being  held at the Scala until January featuring the Scala years and seeing the great singer through her physical changes, from tall and heavy set to a svelte silhouette, following a dramatic weight loss  that changed her forever from ugly duckling into beautiful swan and, according to some, negatively affected her voice.
Even more interesting was the exhibition 'Private Callas' also in Milan earlier this year curated by Maria Luisa Frisa and Gabriele Monti.  Here one could really get a sense of her style. Callas was dressed by Dior and other famous couturiers but she also bought, occasionally, from department stores. Most of all, she established a long and warm relationship with Elvira Leonardi Bouyere, known as Biki, who was her personal dressmaker and personal stylist.
Harper's and Bazaar have put Callas on the cover of their limited edition issue  to mark the V&A Opera exhibition.
I believe Maria Callas, through sheer hardwork, really managed to find her own personal style, exuding sophistication and turning herself into a fashion icon. She was not a follower, but one who would be followed: "Don't talk to me about rules, dear. Wherever I stay I make the goddam rules." she said.
My inner Diva

Photo:Scott Salt Styling: Suzie Coulon Hair:Lisa Higgott MUA: Maryam Wain

Something to be remembered as an encouragement to embrace one's individuality.


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