The "Ugly" Girl's Guide to Modelling

I have had the pleasure of working with Anita De Bauch a few times, in fashion films directed by the very talented Marie Schuller, known for her work with Show Studio.  I knew Anita as a model and had no idea she was also a writer and a witty one too!
The "Ugly "Girl's Guide to Modelling by Anita De Bauch,  New Haven Publishing, 2015, £ 12.99 paperback, £ 26.99 hardcover, is a most welcome addition to a number of other works also written by models championing the agency-free approach to modelling. Most of these works on the market  tend to be written by American models,  this is the only one that has clear references to the UK, but of course it contains sound advice that is useful in any country.
When I first began modelling I would have welcomed a book such as this and really this sums up my assessment of it.  I do remember, however,  coming across the very helpful advice compiled by photographer Wolfgang Kettler in his How to become a model (I later worked with Wolfgang Kettler).  I began as a very standard commercial agency model of the mature model variety then I turned independent but I am still represented by agencies.

Photographer: Wolf Kettler. Model: me

I found The "Ugly" Girl's refreshing and I love the advice the writer gives about 'living like a model' even if you are not one.  It basically boils down to treating yourself well and with respect and also retaining some mystery about your private life, which is always a good thing, in any kind of relationship, and definitely a must in professional relationships.
There have been lots of changes in the modelling world over the past ten years and what Anita says about the 'ugly girl' (very tongue in cheek, as she is definitely not ugly) not being agency material needs to be reviewed. Fashion models, catwalk models in particular,  are defined by height and youth - so 5'7 is regarded  on the short side and being over twenty years of age is 'old' - and they are the ones who tend to be agency models. I mean, after all, they are often children, as young as fourteen, so they would not have a clue about finding work for themselves and they are meant to be getting parental consent even while being on an agency's books! But the height thing is constantly being challenged, as Models of Diversity is doing now,  and  there are currently even agencies for petite models.
Ultimately, if a girl is very striking, and has USP (Unique Selling Point) she can be signed up by an agency. These girls are the Kate Moss or Devon Aoki or Cara Delevingne of the modelling world who  do shows and campaigns etcetera. Moss and Aoki (and more recently Delevingne) went about modelling never emphasising their "lack" of height but emphasising their unique look which ultimately made their being shorter than other girls quite irrelevant.
Agencies  have now expanded to include 'real people' so an 'ugly girl' can be signed up and put forward for commercials, for extra work in commercials and occasionally for fittings. If she has a very interesting look she might do some editorial work even if she is not six foot tall.
But it is also true that more and more opportunities can be found by setting oneself up as an independent model and here Anita's book is  helpful. Some jobs  can still only be obtained as an agency model ('real person' or 'model-model'). Thus I would personally advise being on an agency's books as well as freelancing - website, blog, twitter, facebook and instagram accounts definitely help to acquire visibility.
If you are after art nude or fetish work then being independent is the only option, as there are no agencies for this kind of work. Let's face it: the money is not so good compared to commercial work, so agencies will not waste their time over these jobs. There are no buyouts in art nude or fetish.
A newer development is that of some casting directors bypassing agencies and finding models for their clients amongst the independent ones, through strategically placed casting calls on known sites such as Casting Networks  or the ever growing Star Now or Total Talent.  When they do so the fee offered is often lower than that which can be negotiated by an agency and they often pay only for the shoot, without any buyout.
Modelling is a business and you need to learn how to run your business: you are selling your image. Anita De Bauch discusses this very clearly and very well. But there is more to be said. Ultimately to be a very famous and very well paid model you need to brand yourself. The majority of agency models will not become a brand nor will the majority of independent models. Only a few will stay and go on to acquire personal agents when the volume of work requires it or being managed by a special booker if they are still with an agency (by this stage an exclusive one) and if they have managed to reach such a high level through the 'independent model' approach they too might employ an agent or a personal assistant, like actors often do. But to get there one really has to work hard and be very determined. It should make you question constantly why you want to keep modelling and the answer is always very different and very personal.
Are there any shortcomings to The "Ugly" Girl's Guide? yes, one. I would have liked a fuller and better organised 'Further reading' section. But overall the book is good and good value for money too.

And by the way, I do get the feeling that Anita De Bauch is becoming a brand...

The "Ugly" Girl's Guide to modelling is available from Amazon. Click here