Back from Iran

The former American Embassy in Tehran

I am now at home, I returned on Friday. We spent the morning of Friday in Tehran, trying to visit the former American Embassy, now a museum of "American iniquities". Unfortunately, it was closed, due to Ramadan. We went instead to the artists' park nearby and came across a Smoker Anonymous group (formed on the AA lines) who welcomed us and told us about their activities and then posed for endless selfies and group photos. They were very friendly and genuinely happy to meet us.
I also noticed subversive graffiti on walls which had been carefully covered. A woman, possibly another tourist, was busy taking pictures of them but I did not approach her.

Covered up graffiti

Then we searched for a cafe where we could sit, drink coffee and relax. As it was Ramadan, it was challenging to find somewhere open, but we found it at the National Archaeological Museum.
Ramadan in Iran means that no restaurant or cafe serves drink or food until 8 pm unless they have an exclusive license. These are places for tourists, of course. It would, however,  be wrong to believe that all Iranians fast during Ramadan. Many eat in the privacy of their homes, and those who travel are exempt from fasting.
I miss Iran and its wonderful people. I am also anxious about the current political situation, with Trump threatening to go to war. It's dire.
I would like to go back to Iran as soon as possible. I am intrigued by it, totally bowled over.
This morning I tried to catch up with my knowledge of Iranian history and watched a few Youtube videos, one about the celebration of Persepolis 2,500 years of history, the lavish procession arranged by the then Shah of Persia Mohammed Reza Pahlavi and the other a quick discussion of the Iranian revolution  - you can find the relevant links here and here.
Many people in the West,  including highly educated ones, tend to confuse Iran with Iraq or even Saudi Arabia. I may have done so in the past, but not anymore.
 No, Iran is a different country, quite unique with its own identity and vibrant history.

Iranian girl in Kashan

Iranian women are aware of their undeniably lower status in comparison with men - it was only a few years ago that women were allowed to travel alone, unlike Saudi Arabia, where 'unattended' women put on a bus or train by a male relative have to wait at their destination until a male relative comes to pick them up. But in a small and unobtrusive way, Iranian women tend to challenge the system, through the clothes they choose to wear: how they tie their hijab, how they nonchalantly let it slip, how they show their long tresses  while using a rusari too short to cover the hair dangling on their backs, how they choose mantos a bit more fitted than usual and so on.  Young men seem to be supportive and often defend them when encountering the morality police.
Even though from time to time the powers that be choose to make an example of some woman who seems to have gone too far - as reported by Amnesty International - condemning them to lashes and imprisonment, it seems impossible to control all women. 
Thus Iran remains a big question mark.
Coming back and looking at my social media stream I feel a sense of dismay. How trivial some of the concerns! Travel expands your horizons and gives you a different awareness and perspective. For that, I am immensely grateful and so very glad I chose to go to a beautiful, vibrant and much-maligned country.